Red wine and a red sunrise at Amorgos

After a numbing 9-hour-trip with the Blue Star Ferry from Piraeus, I arrived in Amorgos around 3 in the night. Since I was travelling in March – off-season – I was the only non-Greek aboard the ferry. Only a couple of taxi drivers were waiting in sleeping Katapola to pick up the three or four families who came back from Athens with plastic bags full with Feta and canisters of olive oil (or maybe raki?).

Since it was the middle of the night I decided to catch a few hours of sleep before sunrise at the nearby beach. Around six in the morning I noticed things getting busier again. The first families appeared in the harbor for the early ferry to Piraeus. This was my chance to flag a cab to take me across the mountain to Chosoviotissa, a spectacular monastery literally hanging in a steep red cliff, on the island's east coast. The cheerful taxi guy (who didn't speak a word of English) drove me all the way to the monastery and offered to wait for me. I declined, since I wanted to hike up the mountain and back to Chora, the island's main town, myself.

I had planned this moment - sunrise at Amorgos - for weeks. I even brought a bottle of red wine from Athens to make it perfect. But I wasn't prepared for something quite like this. I arrived at the monastery approximately 45 minutes before sunrise. The first streaks of red already appeared on the far horizon. The silence was absolute. I was alone. I unfolded my camping mat in front of the monastery yard, uncorked the sweet Mavrodaphne from Patras (barbaric, I know...) and waited.

The sky became more and more red by the minute, and then slowly, just slowly, rising out of the water, at first as a small dot of light, but soon like an enormous flame lighting up the Aegean horizon, the sun ascended from the water. It was just magical, the world stopped turning in this ineffable overwhelming silence and the sun rising out of the water like the torch of Prometheus without the slightest noise. I never experienced a sunrise quite like this. Even the famed sunset at Thira pales in comparison. It was just perfect. The almost zen-like calmness with the waves rolling in and just a few waking birds chirping went into a perfect union with the red wine and soon I found myself smiling, with my eyes drifting across the sea. After the stressful time in Athens I was feeling like I had finally arrived in Greece.

Chosoviotissa monastery

Tips for travellers:

The easiest way to get to Amorgos is the Blue Star Ferry from Piraeus. The trip takes about 9 hours and you'll arrive in the middle of the night. Business class seats are 47 €, economy class is 33,50 €. Since economy class is pretty comfortable, the 14 € more for business class aren't really worth it.
Make sure to arrange your stay in Amorgos beforehand so someone from the hotel will pick you up at the harbour or be quick if you want to flag a cab. Otherwise you'll have to walk. Regarding the hotel, either book ahead or walk to the central store in Katapola as soon as it's opening in the morning. Tell the owner you need a place to sleep and he'll arrange something in a hotel in town for you. It seems like the whole island is run by a couple of families. I was staying at Hotel Minoa, it was just fine. Another good and cheap option is the well-organized and fairly clean camping ground in Katapola.

Food:

The food in Katapola is excellent, especially if you go off-season and stick to the tavernas the locals are frequenting. My top pick would be the inconspicuous taverna Mouragio, just west of the central harbour. Look for a place with a wooden fish above the entry, cats gathering in front of the side exit and rugged-looking fishermen sitting at the tables smoking and drinking Greek coffee. Try the fish dishes, they're incredible and straight from the sea. I had three red mullets for lunch. The weathered old fishermen sitting next to my table applauded me for my choice. They told me they were the ones who caught the fish in the night and sold it to the tavern in the morning. It can't any fresher, can it? The prices are very low regarding the quality you get. I paid around 10 € for the fish, some bread and some wine. When I was asking for the bill the old woman owning the place brought me an excellent dessert of honey-dripping pickled fruit for free, urging me to try it. Gorgeous!

Another pick would be the taverna Gorgona, close to the harbour. The Souvlaki in this down-to-earth place was pretty good and the atmosphere is cheerful with the tavern owner telling you a tale about the island or two.

If you're looking for a local specialty and like it sweet, you need to sample a glass of the famed Amorgos rakomelo. It's basically raki spiced up with honey, cardamom and cinnamon, really sweet. You consume it hot. It's said to cure every disease.

Traveling to Naxos in 1768

The influence of travel reports dating from the 18th century on the way how we perceive the ancient mediterranean world has been widely discussed. One of the most influential reports is the small book "Bemerkungen auf einer Reise nach der Levante" (1774) by German baron Johann Hermann von Riedesel (1740–1784). Riedesel, who was a disciple of Johann Joachim Winckelmann, the single most important figure in the re-discovery of the Roman and Greek antique, started traveling to the Mediterranean in 1768 and gives us a vivid, witty, slighty ironic glimpse into the countries and cultures of Southern Europe before the start of modern tourism. This is his account of a visit to Naxos in 1768, which at that time was governed by Venetian, Greek and French noblemen under the supreme reign of the Ottoman Empire:

"Ich kam nun auf die Insel Naxia, welche ehmals dem Bacchus geheiligt war. Auf einem kleinen Felsen, der Insel gegenüber, sieht man noch die Hauptthüre von dem Tempel des Bacchus; alles Übrige aber ist zerstört. Diese Thüre ist nach dorischer Ordnung gebaute, und besteht aus drye Stücken weißen Marmor, zwei Pfeilern und einem Gesimse über der Thür. Jeder Pfeiler hat vier und eine halbe neapolitanische Palme in der Breite. Der Eingang in den Tempel war sehr enge, und kaum für eine Person zureichend, ob gleich die Hauptthüre zehn Palmen breit war. Dieß machen zwey große Stücken Marmor, und die Pfeiler an beyden Seiten, welche nur einen Rum von zwei Palmen breit zum Eingange lassen. Ich habe dieß in keinem alten Tempel bemerkt, und die Ursache davon ist mir unbegreiflich. Der Tempel kann nicht sehr groß gewesen sein, denn der Felsen, auf dem er gebaute war, ist sehr klein. Eine große Treppe führte von der Nordseite des Tempels nach dem Meere, und der Felsen war durch einen Damm mit der Insel Naxia verbunden. Man findet noch Spuren dieses Dammes, und auch von verschiedenen Bädern, und von einem Wasserbehälter.

Die Stadt Naxia ist sehr reich an schönen Ueberbleibseln des Altertums, aber dabey sehr häslich. Man sieht daselbst noch einige dorische Capitäler, und den alten Platz von Steinen, die durch mosaische Arbeit zusammengesetzt waren; auch noch einen alten Canal, der mit der Erde gleich ist. […]

Es ist sehr zu bedauern, daß diese Insel, eine der schönsten und größten des Archipels, so sehr unbewohnt ist. Sie bringt sehr guten Wein, auch Seide hervor, und hat viele Weide. Die Zahl ihrer Einwohner beträgt aber nicht über fünf tausend. Es haben sich hier verschiedene fremde Familien festgesetzt. Die Modene, die Vigoureuse, kommen von den Maltheserrittern her, die auf ihren Fahrten hier landeten und sich hier festsetzten. die Condilli behaupten, daß sie von altem griechischen Adel herstammen; die Somma Ripa von Venetianischen Edlen. Sie sind aber nur Bastarde. Der Graf von Rumpf, der von einer sehr guten deutschen Familie herstammt, hat eine Modene geheyrathet, und also noch eine adliche Familie mehr auf der Insel gestiftet. Alles diese angeblichen Edlen sind so stolz auf ihren Adel, daß sie lieber sterben, als handeln oder sonst irgend Etwas thun würden.

Die weibliche Kleidung ist höchst lächerlich (dies geht hauptsächlich auf das griechische Frauenzimmer; denn viele Weiber der Römisch Catholischen richten sich nach der Mode der Venetianerinnen. Der Übers.). Das Frauenzimmer sieht hier wie eine geputzte Gans aus. Sie sind aber außerdem recht artig; nicht so grausam, nicht so fein, nicht so eigennützig, wie die Schönen von Tine [= Tinos]. Dieser ihre Ehrlichkeit ist durch den allgemeinen Handel verdorben, der auf der Insel herrscht, und auch dadurch, daß sie in den großen Städten der Levante gelebt haben.

Man findet auf diesem elenden kleinen Flecken Land einen Erzbischof mit seinen Canonicis, Capucinern, Barfüssern, ein Nonnenkloster und – das Beste von Aldem – Jesuiten (Alle diese Brüderschaften befinden sich hier unter französischem Schutz). Wahrhaftig genug, um eine so kleine Insel bettelarm zu machen; besonders wenn man nun noch die vielen griechischen Klöster hinzu denkt!

Die Einwohner haben Verstand. Die Schäfer, besonders die auf dem Berge des Jupiters, sind fürtreffliche Schleuderer; sie können auf fünfhundert Schritte weit mit einer erstaunenden Genauigkeit Steine werfen, und verfehlen niemals ihren Mann. Ihre Schleudern sind von Leder, und an zwey Peitschen angeheftet, womit sie den Stein fortschlagen. Die kleinsten Kinder tragen schon dergleichen Schleudern an ihren Gürteln. Auf dem Felde sah ich ein sehr großes Stück von weissem Marmor, das vermutlich zu einer colossalischen Statue gehört hatte. Es hatte dreyßig Palmen in der Länge und fünf in der Breite. Die Männer tragen große Strohhüte, die an dem Nacken befestigt sind; man sieht eine solche Figur auch auf dem schönen Basrelief des Cardinals Alexander Albani in seinem Landhause, welches den Amphion und Zethus vorstellt. Es scheint, daß dieser Gebrauch sich von der Zeit an, noch immer erhalten hat."

Baron von Riedesel: Bemerkungen auf einer Reise nach der Levante. Aus dem Französischen übersetzt und mit einigen erläuternden Anmerkungen begleitet, von Christ. Wilh. Dohm. Leipzig 1774, S. 62–67.

Y Zoula - Mezedes, Rembetiko and Anarchy

Young and bustling Exarchia – or Anarchia – as some like to call it, isn't exactly among the top-10 recommendations in your regular travel guide. Indeed, Exarchia is a traditional hotspot for riots and left-wing protest walks. The African prostitutes along Themistokleou Rd. and the junkies in Solomou Rd. don't add up to the standard cliché postcard snapshot of ancient Athens either. Still, when you stroll across green Exarchia square and catch the smell of Souvlaki and burnt waste, the ever-persistent noise of the motorbikes, the laid-back cafés, rock pubs and Mezedopolias, you'll get an idea of real Athens, beyond Akropolis, bad Gyros and kitschy souvenirs. But not only is Exarchia the best place to party on a Saturday, it also boasts some of the most authentic, down-to-earth and best places to explore the wonders of real Greek mezes.

Among the fine Mezedopolias in that special part of town, it's hard to pick a favourite. But when it comes to coolness and pure authenticity, nothing can beat Y Zoula near the top end of Koletti Road. And seriously, there's nothing that can go wrong with an owner, who goes by the name of Nektarios Mystikos ("yes, that's my real name"). Nektarios' concept is plain and simple: good, high quality mezes sold at a price the many students in Exarchia (the university is just around the corner ...) and the young families in the neighborhood can afford. And Ouzo, lots of Ouzo. Nektarios is proud to showcase a whole cupboard full of the finest brands from all over Greece. Honestly, if you're looking for a place to sample some REALLY good Ouzo, come to Y Zoula. Nektarios is a pro when it comes to Ouzo, he can tell you a story about every brand, how it is produced, which island it is from etc. Y Zoula doesn't call itself a "Rakadiko", a "Raki Pub" for nothing. Being an avid fan of Rembetiko, he'll also be able to tell you a story about the "Greek blues", too.

Ouzo aside, the real highlight of Y Zoula is its pure and simple cuisine. There's just a small grill and a stove behind the bar, but that's enough for Nektarios to come up with some of the tastiest mezes between here and Amorgos. The top picks would be the incredibly tasty fried cheese (basically a piece of top quality Kefalotiri in a Saganaki, served with spices, a slice of lemon and high quality olive oil) and the spicy fried garlic sausage. Nektarios gets the sausages from an Albanian butcher who lives in his house. The fresh and fluffy Keftedes in a spicy tomato sugo are just as great. There's also a small selection of cold mezes. Under any circumstances try to sample the homemade Dolmades, which most probably are the best you'll get in Athens, and the Kefalotiri cheese, which comes in big chunks fresh from the loaf. To put it short: don't expect fancy cuisine, sophisticated seafood or a big wine list to choose from. Y Zoula is all about simplicity and the sheer quality of the basic product. And about Ouzo. Good Ouzo. Did I mention that before?

Y Zoula opens in the afternoon, but it's definitely a place you should go to in the evening. The crowd is rather young, mostly students, and the atmosphere is informal and cheerful with Rembetiko or Greek Rock Music playing on the stereo. You'll easily make new friends around here when the tables are full with the small plates and the Ouzo is flowing.

The prices are absurdly low, considering the quality and the atmosphere you get. Most mezedes are between 2,50 € and 5 € and come with a basket of bread. The Ouzo's just as cheap and comes in small  or big bottles (depending on your plans for the night), served with water (and ice if you like).